How to sew L-shaped Darts (Burda Patterns)

Also known as the front bust shaping darts in my wool jacket muslin. They took 6 steps to finish! Crazy. Here’s how they started.

front bust darts step 1

Burda’s directions left me scratching my head, so I had to muddle through hands on. I took pictures of the second one just to show you. Luckily all my mistakes in the first one were fixable, so I didn’t have to cut another muslin front. First I had to cut between the horizontal lines.

bust dart cut 1Second, stitch the vertical portion of the dart, which I did in two passes (the second time). First I started at the center and stitched up to the point. Then stitched from the center down to get the bottom point accurately.

bust dart stitch 1

Third, cut away seam allowances and press.

bust dart press 1

Finally, stitch the horizontal seam of the dart. Clip into the angle and press open.

bust dart press 2

And that’s how you make a dart with a 90 degree turn in it! Here they are all basted up.

bust darts complete

Now imagine doing all the with these Burda instructions:

“Cut the fronts along the center between the marked horizontal edges, up to 1 cm before the front dart line. Stitch the bust darts. Clip the seam allowance diagonally into the corner at bottom end of dart. Trim dart allowances to 1 cm wide and press open, pressing points of darts flat. Then stitch horizontal edges of fronts together, right sides facing. Press seam allowances open.” from BurdaStyle English directions online.

Personally, I am a hands on learner and the block of text I found confusing until I broke it down and did it myself on the toile. I know we are all supposed to read through the entire pattern to understand everything before we start, but when its complicated, I don’t find that very helpful. Either way, this was a fun challenge and I’m glad I did it, though this could explain why this lovely jacket has so few downloads and no reviews that I could find online.

One thought on “How to sew L-shaped Darts (Burda Patterns)

  1. I have darts like that in a shift dress on my sewing list. Yay, I’m not having to figure out the instructions. Thanks for sharing this 🙂 Although the retro simplicity ones might be passably better than burda’s.

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