And now I am confused…

Sometimes it just takes a hands on experience for the light bulb to turn on. Other times its just a head-scratcher. Remember my BS 03/2011 #137 muslin? I did nothing to the CB, cut on fold, and this is what it looked like.

cream tee back

Then for the Burdastyle Sew-A-Long, I cut the same pattern, in a dark purple knit. I added the Center Back Seam and made a Sway Back Adjustment as explained by the Slapdash Sewist. As she explained it, it made sense: fold out where your sway back is, and this throws off the grain below the adjustment causing it to drape around the curve and it shortens the CB length. This is what it looks like.

purple tunic back

Don’t they look the freaking same?? The purple one has less “puddle” but now what? Fold out more? Do I just have a freakishly huge sway back? Nothing in my research suggested a different alteration for knit than woven fabric, but maybe its that?Any ideas ladies? I am stumped.

purple tunic side front

Anyway, here is the front of the tunic, which I do love this tunic and wanted to wear it with my new Laura leggings, but I have misplaced them already. Hard to believe right? I took 1/2″ ease at CF and 1/2″ when I added the CB seam so its a snugger fit overall, so it doesn’t slide down my shoulders this time. I also doubled the height of the neckband and only tacked it down at CB to conceal the seam leaving the raw edge loose for best draping effect. This is a great addition to my winter wardrobe and it took less than 3 hours to cut and sew. I like this pattern because it has “true” raglan sleeves aka has a shoulder shaping dart in the sleeve head and it is not a sack. I will make it again sometime, but I think I need some ease in the hips to get rid of the fit and flare look since that wasn’t in the pattern.

purple tunic front

P.S. I really just want to have a whine fest about how hard fitting a stupid t-shirt is. Sigh…

17 thoughts on “And now I am confused…

  1. Can we see the back pattern piece with the tuck folded out or slash and overlapped, please?

    1. Hi Mrs. Mole, here is the link to the tutorial, which matches what I did. It is a folded out dart that goes across 3/4 of the pattern piece.
      I wanted to take a picture of my pattern piece, but alas I am waiting for my new one week old Mother’s Day gift camera to dry in hopes that it still works. My husband put it in his pocket at the beach and forgot it was there. Le sigh… The last pictures I got off the camera were for this post.

  2. Yes, I agree with you: fitting a tee is the worst PITA and I’m still wondering if it’s worth the trouble. I do agree that the purple tee fits better, but I think you need a bigger sway back adjustment – probably a good one inch or so. It would be worth experimenting for the fun of learning, anyways! I do my sway back adjustments like a short waist adjustment combined with a high or large hip adjustment. That way the grain doesn’t change so much.

    1. First I have to ask: What does PITA stand for? It is interesting that you mentioned a short waist adjustment. I looked back through my notes and I did make that adjustment in my fitted jacket class. I hadn’t thought to translate that into my other projects. I did so much in that class, I keep forgetting bits. I had my husband help me remeasure my back waist length and compared it to Burda’s size 44 and there is a 1″ to 1.25″ difference, depending on where my husband measured. He tries hard, bless him! I am so not excited about cutting another t-shirt, but I want to get this you know? I am going to make another, but not next. Thanks for the helpful advice!

  3. I like that purple colour on you – as for fitting advice not sure that I can help as I have lots of problems as well. In fact looking at your shirt back makes me think I need to take some photos of my back view!! I have so far ignored the back view but not for any longer!

    1. I almost wish I hadn’t taken back photos! I have been spending so much sewing time reading blogs, tutorials, and fitting tips trying to figure out what is exactly the problem and darn it there are so many problems to choose from that cause puddles above the tush!

  4. Your waist length is too long. Shorten the waist until the back no longer puddles and then lengthen the top. It will look great!

    1. By lengthen the top, I am assuming that means the hem? So that the front and back are level?
      As for waist length, that is what I am going to try next. I am going to start with the difference between my measurement and their base measurement and add fullness in the hips and go from there. Thanks!

  5. First things first… You asked what PITA means… It means “Pain in the arse”. Fitting is such a pain!

    As for the sway back alteration, the pinching didn’t work out for me either.. M y search continued. And this is what I found.

    I kept looking where it came from. Apparently, it came from “Fitting and Pattern Alteration – a multimethod approach” book by Elizabeth L Liechty and Judith Rasband. This book is touted as THE fitting bible and has a new edition as well.

    1. I will have to look into that book. Thanks so much for the link! I am glad to know it is not just me=D As for PITA, I am going to incorporate that into my functioning vocabulary! Love it!

  6. Hey T! Loving that purple! You have me checking out patterns BTW – you inspiration you.

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